Eyeshadow Application Precision In Five Easy Steps

'Pro' Perfect Eyeshadow Application

Getting a perfect professional looking eyeshadow application is not out of reach if you understand the the strategy of approach the "pros" use.

These five steps, that I call the "B's" strategy are a simple but effectively precise approach to doing your eye makeup that will give you confidence in what you are doing, and beautiful professional looking results.

Precise application strategy in five easy to learn steps:

eyeshadow application

Step 1 Base first
Step 2 Basic zones
Step 3 Brushes
Step 4 Build Color
Step 5 Blend

Step 1 Base First

Creating a base first is critical to eyeshadow application. Why? Not only will the makeup apply more evenly and more notably, it will have long wearing capabilities.

Without a base, the eyeshadow will likely apply in patches as it clings to your skin, color will lack vibrancy, and over time, it will seem to disappear as it seeps into your skin.

So to apply a base...

1. Beginning with a primer for the eye area. This is optional but recommended as it will create a smooth barrier between your eye makeup and skin, and it will be an excellent base to build makeup layers upon.

2. Well matching foundation should be applied and blended well, in small increments, avoiding the lashes, ensuring that it does not collect in eye area creases. Most will apply over eye area and rest of face, but if you don't wear foundation, make sure that your foundation in the eye area blends without a trace into the zones surrounding it.

3. Once you have effectively blended your foundation, apply concealer to areas as needed i.e. cover dark circles under the eye area by dotting concealer along eye orbital bone, and blending upward gently with a clean ring finger or concealer brush.

4. Loose translucent powder follows foundation and concealer, and should be lightly dusted over the eye area using a big powder brush.

MAKEUP TIP: Pour a little loose powder into lid of container, dip powder brush and tap off excess on a clean tissue, or give brush a shake over the sink.

Your are ready to start with your eyeshadow application.

Step 2 Basic Zones Of Placement

Get to know the eye area and the smaller zones within the eye area in terms of four basic zones of makeup placement. This is not to get too technical, but to assist with more precise eyeshadow application.

The diagram below uses a black dotted line to give the general eye makeup application area boundaries. That general area further sub-divides into smaller zones as shown on the left.

Eye makeup application begins with eyeshadow in zone A. , followed by zone B., C., and D in that application sequence.

Zone A. This area is the upper lid starting at the upper lash line and moving into the crease area under the brow bone. The base shade, the first eyeshadow shade, is applied here blending into the crease to the brown bone.

*Note blending gently for smooth even application with appearance of shadow diminishing into (under) brow bone, as well as, the left and right general zone boundaries.

Zone B. The crease area is the natural arc shaped recession on the upper lid, below the brow bone. A deeper shade of shadow is used to sweep along the arc, producing a literal arc of shadow that blends into zone A. and upwards under the brow bone.

eyeshadow application Zone C. This area is a small area above the brow bone. This area is highlighted with color emphasis on the outer half. The lightest shade is used here.

Zone D. This zone has often been left out when it comes to eyeshadow application. Typically a little eye liner and very little mascara work this zone. However, recent styles have really played up this under lash lower lid area with shadow. Shadow has been playing the role of liner in varying degrees of thickness under the lashes for beautiful dramatic definition.

In the above diagram all four shadows used above the upper lashes, were strategically placed under the lower lashes. Step 4. takes a very dark eyeshadow shade and places it finely along the upper lashes, extending it horizontally, where the natural eye shape moves downward. To a smaller degree, that same deep shade is placed centrally and directly under the lash line, for a wide-eyed look. Those fine lines will also be softened with a blending brush.

EYESHADOW APPLICATION TIP: Using a folded tissue place under the lower lashes will avoid dust falling on cheeks etc. diminishing the clean, precise, definition and professional looking finish.

Step 3 Brushes

Makeup brushes are critical to the precision of makeup application. It is especially important with eyeshadow application because the zone is small and there is a lot of detail to the eye area.

In general, eye makeup brushes should be soft haired, but firm and ideally, long handled (short handles are for on the go convenience). Bristles should not be coarse or easily pulled out of brush.

Eyeshadow application can be effectively achieved using these three must have brushes; medium eye shadow brush, medium tapered eye shadow brush, and a small angled eye makeup brush.

1. Medium Eye Shadow Brush-

Use a medium head eye shadow brush, with soft but firm natural bristle hair, and a complimentary eye shadow in a light to medium shade. Sweep across the upper eye lid with a medium eye shadow brush starting on the inside and moving along the upper lash line to the outer corner, from the out corner back to the middle, over lapping blending strokes. Move upwards to the crease or into the brow bone area in horizontal sweeps (blending into the brow bone, not above).
*Note-Color should diminish and blend well as it reaches the imaginary lines of the eye zone.

2. Medium Round Tapered Eye Shadow Brush-

Using the medium sized round tapered shadow brush, and a slightly deeper shadow shade, apply shadow in the natural contour of the eyelid, under the brow bone, in the shape of a shallow arc. Blend well both downward and upward being sure that the contour does not extend beyond the imaginary lines on either side of the eye.
*Note-Color should diminish and blend well as it reaches those imaginary lines.

Or this combination brush Good Value Multi Function by Tarte

The next step in eyeshadow application is applying the highlight shade, the lightest shade, at the brow bone and above it, blending it along and under the actual eye brow with focus being on the outer side. The Medium eye shadow brush great for this task too.

3. Small Angled Eye Makeup Brush-

This brush is great for eye makeup techniques that include blending pencil eye liner, softening harsh lines, and applying precise wet or dry eye shadow along lash lines.

For more on Cargo's Angle Liner Brush choose Cargo in the brand menu on the right, after you click here, Makeup Tools & Accessories.

Step 4 Build Color For Dimension

When using one color in eyeshadow application, you have limited defining ability. When using multiple shades of colors, you have great building potential of dimension and definition.

The only trick here is to have the eye shadow choices meet the role needs of zone placement i.e. light to medium base shade, slightly darker color choice for crease and lightest choice for a highlight. Further dimension, as in step 4. of diagram, takes a very dark shade and places it along the lash lines as desired.

EYESHADOW TIP: Ideally, the shades chosen for eyeshadow application either all belong to the same color family, OR they compliment one another beautifully. Remember these shades are being blended together and really need to work together.

Vincent Longo makes it easy with his One Two Three Trio

The above eyeshadow application diagram shows a monochromatic color scheme of beige (four colors from one single color family).

Step 5 Blend

When one shade blends into the next, gradations of color are created and beautiful dimension and definition occurs.

The idea here is to make the eye makeup less apparent, and your beauty more apparent. Blending takes care of the harsh lines between eye shadow color and skin tone, and between colors themselves. Blend every application step so colors have no easily definable start and stop. This ensures a soft, fresh, feature enhancing finish

Good brushes will make a tremendous difference in blending ease and effectiveness.

Good blending will make the night and day difference between an eye makeup finish that looks mediocre and sloppy, and an eye makeup finish that compliments, defines, and enhances your eyes with a professional touch.

EYESHADOW APPLICATION BLENDING TIP: It is important to keep makeup application tidy working within that zone. Brush strokes should be gentle but precise with makeup blending, diminishing, and disappearing as zone and sub-zone boundaries are approached.

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