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'Pro'
Perfect Eyeshadow
Application
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Getting a perfect professional looking eyeshadow application is not out of reach if you understand the the strategy of approach the "pros" use.
Creating a base first is critical to eyeshadow application. Why? Not only will the makeup apply more evenly and more notably, it will have long wearing capabilities. Without a base, the eyeshadow will likely apply in patches as it clings to your skin, color will lack vibrancy, and over time, it will seem to disappear as it seeps into your skin. So to apply a base... 1. Beginning with a primer for the eye area. This is optional but recommended as it will create a smooth barrier between your eye makeup and skin, and it will be an excellent base to build makeup layers upon. 2. Well matching foundation should be applied and blended well, in small increments, avoiding the lashes, ensuring that it does not collect in eye area creases. Most will apply over eye area and rest of face, but if you don't wear foundation, make sure that your foundation in the eye area blends without a trace into the zones surrounding it. 3. Once you have effectively blended your foundation, apply concealer to areas as needed i.e. cover dark circles under the eye area by dotting concealer along eye orbital bone, and blending upward gently with a clean ring finger or concealer brush. 4. Loose translucent powder follows foundation and concealer, and should be lightly dusted over the eye area using a big powder brush.
Your are ready to start with your eyeshadow application.
Eye makeup application begins with eyeshadow in zone A. , followed by zone B., C., and D in that application sequence. Zone A. This area is the upper lid starting at the upper lash line and moving into the crease area under the brow bone. The base shade, the first eyeshadow shade, is applied here blending into the crease to the brown bone. *Note blending gently for smooth even application with appearance of shadow diminishing into (under) brow bone, as well as, the left and right general zone boundaries. Zone B. The crease area is the natural arc shaped recession on the upper lid, below the brow bone. A deeper shade of shadow is used to sweep along the arc, producing a literal arc of shadow that blends into zone A. and upwards under the brow bone.
Zone D. This zone has often been left out when it comes to eyeshadow application. Typically a little eye liner and very little mascara work this zone. However, recent styles have really played up this under lash lower lid area with shadow. Shadow has been playing the role of liner in varying degrees of thickness under the lashes for beautiful dramatic definition. In the above diagram all four shadows used above the upper lashes, were strategically placed under the lower lashes. Step 4. takes a very dark eyeshadow shade and places it finely along the upper lashes, extending it horizontally, where the natural eye shape moves downward. To a smaller degree, that same deep shade is placed centrally and directly under the lash line, for a wide-eyed look. Those fine lines will also be softened with a blending brush.
Makeup brushes are critical to the precision of makeup application. It is especially important with eyeshadow application because the zone is small and there is a lot of detail to the eye area. In general, eye makeup brushes should be soft haired, but firm and ideally, long handled (short handles are for on the go convenience). Bristles should not be coarse or easily pulled out of brush.
Use
a medium head eye shadow brush, with soft but firm natural bristle
hair, and a
complimentary eye shadow in a light to medium shade. Sweep
across the
upper eye lid with a medium eye shadow brush starting on the inside and
moving along the upper lash line to the outer
corner, from the out corner back to the middle, over lapping blending
strokes.
Move upwards
to the crease or into the brow bone area in horizontal sweeps (blending
into the brow
bone, not above).
2. Medium Round Tapered Eye Shadow Brush- Using
the medium sized round tapered shadow brush, and a slightly deeper
shadow shade, apply shadow in the natural contour of the eyelid, under
the brow
bone, in the shape of a shallow arc. Blend well both downward and
upward being
sure that the contour does not extend beyond the imaginary lines on
either side
of the eye. Or
this combination brush Good Value Multi Function by Tarte
The next step in eyeshadow application is applying the highlight shade, the lightest shade, at the brow bone and above it, blending it along and under the actual eye brow with focus being on the outer side. The Medium eye shadow brush great for this task too. 3. Small Angled Eye Makeup Brush-
For
more on Cargo's Angle Liner Brush choose Cargo in
the brand menu on the right, after you click here, Makeup Tools & Accessories Step 4 Build Color For Dimension When using one color in eyeshadow application, you have limited defining ability. When using multiple shades of colors, you have great building potential of dimension and definition. The only trick here is to have the eye shadow choices meet the role needs of zone placement i.e. light to medium base shade, slightly darker color choice for crease and lightest choice for a highlight. Further dimension, as in step 4. of diagram, takes a very dark shade and places it along the lash lines as desired.
Vincent Longo makes it easy with his One Two
Three Trio
The above eyeshadow application diagram shows a monochromatic color scheme of beige (four colors from one single color family). Step 5 Blend When one shade blends into the next, gradations of color are created and beautiful dimension and definition occurs. The idea here is to make the eye makeup less apparent, and your beauty more apparent. Blending takes care of the harsh lines between eye shadow color and skin tone, and between colors themselves. Blend every application step so colors have no easily definable start and stop. This ensures a soft, fresh, feature enhancing finish Good brushes will make a tremendous difference in blending ease and effectiveness. Good blending will make the night and day difference between an eye makeup finish that looks mediocre and sloppy, and an eye makeup finish that compliments, defines, and enhances your eyes with a professional touch.
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