Face Shape Makeup

How To Create Balance

At one time, face shape makeup technique was an important measure to achieving the commonly held beauty ideal, having an oval face. Luckily that is no longer the case. Heavy shading and contouring to 'correct' the non-oval face is old thinking.

The modern beauty ideal has a wide ranging list of features, makeup styles, ethnicities...all beautiful. The purpose of face shape makeup considerations at this time, is really about gaining an awareness of your own facial features and the pursuit of BALANCE...
Balance is a key principal to aesthetic design of any kind.

Face Shape Makeup....FINDING BALANCE...

When it comes right down to it, when you apply makeup, you are designing and styling your face. It is simply practical to understand your face shape.

Also helpful to makeup design is knowing the shape of your eyes, how your eyes are set, and your mouth shape.

What is your face shape?

According to the experts, they can be generally defined as follows:

  • Oval - the oval face has a curvilinear shape, forehead and jaw appear to be same width, face length is one and a half that of it's width
  • Oblong - the oblong face is longer than it is wide with a straight vertical cheek line
  • Square - the square face shape is strong, with a broad forehead and a square jaw
  • Rectangular -the rectangular face has a square jaw with the length of face longer than it's width
  • Heart -the heart shape face has a narrow jaw with wider cheek bones and forehead
  • Round - a round face is circular in shape with a length approximately equal to the width.

Your face shape will effect your choices in hairstyle, eyebrow shape and face makeup applications like blush.

Face Shape Makeup Strategies For Blush And Other Face Color Effects


Blush, bronzer, contour, highlighting makeup are all methods of not only generating more color in your complexion, but they also can build greater dimensional quality ( that sculpted look). Placement on the face, blending, color use are all important elements to successfully creating a great look.  With this approach to face shape makeup, you can go as far as altering the perception of extreme features that may dominate your look, or just avoid exaggerating those features.

face shape makeup diagram

Illustration: ©beauty-and-makeup-tips.com/ Six General Face Shapes

For face shape makeup strategies, general rules of thumb are usually followed with the exception of placement.

  • Oval - Oval faces have a lot of style liberty because of their existing balanced, symmetrical appearance.  When it comes to blush, oval faces can follow the general rules of thumb.
  • Oblong- The dominant issue for this face shape it's length. A longer face can avoid applications that exaggerate its length by using a more horizontal path of placement.
  • Square- The dominant issue is sharp angles which can create a strong visual.  To avoid sharpening the already angular nature of your face shape, use round shape patterns of blending blush at the apples of your cheeks and curved paths.
  • Rectangular- The dominant issue here is length.  A more horizontal, slightly curved path across cheeks can diminish length and soften angles.
  • Heart-The dominant issue for a heart shaped face is an angular narrow chin and the additional element of dramatic contrast to a wider forehead.  A smaller placement at outer apple of cheek, lined up under outer third of eye will reduce attention at the central face. Blend on horizontal path outward instead of diagonal upward, which will enhance the strong angle of the jaw and chin and have the eye perceive greater width lower on the face.
  • Round-For round faces the dominant issue is the circular shape.  An angled fairly straight path will introduce a linear element.


When applying blush makeup, the most natural looking effect will rely heavily on color choice, placement and blending.

Color- A great color choice will be an earthy shade close to your natural blush shade (pinch your cheek for some assistance with the color)and a slightly more vibrant color shade for the apples of your cheeks.

Placement- The earthy shade will be placed on your cheek bone and blended out towards your hairline. The vibrant color will have a small placement zone on the apples of your cheeks (the fleshy mound of cheek that sticks out when you smile), starting in the middle and blending outward in a circular pattern. where you place a natural earthy shade along your cheek, blend it well, and add a small punch of more vibrant color to your apple of the cheek (the fleshy mound where you smile, again blending well.

Blending- There should never be a distinct color start or stop. Think in terms of veils of sheer color that disappear as they move out of the zone. The concentration of color will be central and diminish in presence as you move outward.

Face Shape Makeup- EYE MAKEUP

Eye shape can be described as narrow, round, almond, tear drop and they can be positioned wide set, close set or normal distance apart. When you apply eye makeup you can use line and shading to help create lift to down turned eyes, create distance for close set eyes, bring closer wide set eyes, widen narrow eyes and so forth.

Here are a few eye makeup tips that can restore balance to strong eye features:
If your eyes are

  • Close-Set (less than one eye width apart)? - Shade on the outer eyelid, bring design attention to the outer corner of the eye wide-set (greater than one eye width apart), bring eye makeup detail central to the eye, and shade the inner corner drooping outer corners-liner placed sightly above and outside of outer corner, then angled into lash line, 1/3 of the way from outer corner, can lift the lash line and the eye. Based on your coloring, a dark brown, brown black, or black pencil, filling between line and lashes so pencil and lash line merge.
  • Narrow Small eyes?- Eye lash curler will extend eyelashes up and away from eye, lining eyes along the top lash line, and using light neutral lower lash line definition can help create the perception of a larger eye. A big no-no,... don't line the inner rim of lashes-otherwise known as the water line-this will really close small eyes. really big round eyes-line inner rim/ waterline of eyes with deep color pencil, brown or black.

Face Shape Makeup- THE LIPS

Lips come in all sorts of packages but again, a general approach to describing lips are full, thin, uneven with many variations to the upper lip bow.

  • Making thin lips appear more full? - Line outer edge of natural lip line with natural shade or matching (planned) lip color shade. Soften line with finger or lip brush. Create a highlight color at central lip area and then add gloss to central for reflective purpose. Avoid dark shades, they can make a mouth seem smaller and severe.
  • Making full lips more thin? - Line inner edge of natural lip line with pencil matching natural lip color or planned shade. # Uneven lips equal- usually the upper lip is less full than the lower lip in these scenarios... so line outer edge of natural upper lip line and either, skip lining the lower lip or line inner edge of lip line.

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Spring 2018

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