How To Apply Eyeshadow

A Few Techniques... Many Style Options

Maybe you will never be 'gifted' in the art of makeup application, but you can learn how to apply eyeshadow, like a pro.

With some understanding of the basic zones of the eye area , the sequence eye makeup is applied in,  and a few different layering techniques under your belt, you will be on your way to pro results (well almost - keep experimenting).  Don't forget quality brushes will make application so much easier.

How To Apply Eyeshadow Part 1.  PREPARATION

There is a structured method to the brilliant results you see. I can guarantee that almost every professional application of eye makeup, was preceded by:

• probably primer for the eye area (smooth out texture)
• definitely foundation (even out tone)
• definitely concealer (under eye tone)
• definitely a dusting of loose powder (to set the eye area, create staying power of present and future makeup applications and generate an even moisture level- so the brush doesn't catch on 'stickier' patches of skin).

How To Apply Eyeshadow  Part 2.  EYE ZONE TOOLS

Consider the eye area a large zone, with smaller mini zones in it.
Each mini zone has:

• specific types of makeup i.e. shadow, liner, mascara
• specific tools to apply the type of makeup i.e. eyeshadow brushes, eyelash curler...
• AND tools designed to accommodate the zone shape, size & technique (you wouldn't use a fine eye liner brush to apply eyeshadow to your upper lid).

In the diagram to the left, one eye is divided into mini zones and the other eye outlines the general eye zone. It seems obvious, but many end up with makeup extending beyond this and it can look very unflattering. Unless you have a pro at work, tidy, clean and in the zone looks best.

The following diagram shows some versatile eyeshadow brushes that I would consider staples.  They are divided into two groups; upper lid and crease AND lash line.

Professional makeup artists have many more eye shadow brushes to perform all of their styling tasks.

You can too if you like, but you really don't need much more than the six eye makeup brushes you see to the left; two medium eye shadow brushes, one for powder, and one for cream or wet applications, a large soft haired blending brush, an angled small head brush, a fine liner, and a smaller blender/ or smudge brush.   (Add an eyelash curler and you will have everything you need to complete most eye makeup styles).

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How To Apply Eyeshadow #3 EYESHADOW APPLICATION

Here are three basic but versatile style sequences of eyeshadow application; 1. Classic Sequence 2. Dramatic Sequence and 3. Smokey Eye Effect Sequence.  They are the building blocks to most eye makeup looks that you see in magazaines and on celebrities.  Knowing these and a variety of eye liner techniques, will help you analyse and re-create styles you see and like.

Three Style Sequences How To Apply Eyeshadow

1. Classic
In the classic style, you begin with a light to medium shade from lashline to brow bone (A).  Then you  work the crease (B) with a medium shade for a subtle contrast.  A third shade in a light color can act as a highlight on your outer brow bone (C).

The look is completed with dark fine eye liner placed tightly along the upper lash line, a narrow band of the medium shade swept below the lower lash line (D) and mascara.

2. Dramatic
In a more dramatic approach, a medium to dark shade is used from lash line to crease (A), blending into crease and below brow bone.  A light shade is blended at and above the crease into the brow bone (B & C).

As shown in the middle column above, the look is completed with a more bold eye lining still tight to the lash line, and softened with a brush.  Again, a sweep of color under the lower lash line, and multiple coats of mascara, completes this style.

3. Smokey
In this sequence you begin with eye liner, dark and smudged thickly along the upper lash line, followed by your darkest shadow shade of the trio you use, blending in zone A, and into B.

You then layer your medium shade at the crease (B) working the arc and into under the brow bone.  You will also use that same medium shade, sweeping back and forth from the outer corner of the eye, under the lower lash line, to the inner corner of the eye (normal or close set eyes will avoid going all the way to the corner).

The look is then be completed with lining the inner rim of the eyelids (the water line) and lots of mascara.

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How To Apply Eyeshadow #4 SWITCHING IT UP

What other elements, beyond how you apply eyeshadow, changes the eye make up style?

• color scheme choices; monochromatic ( single family of color just light to deep tones i.e. sand, taupe, deep beige/brown) or different color families altogether (NARS Duos have some surprising combinations that are quite beautiful) or high contrast of color ( the higher the contrast they greater presence and drama).
• style of liner and definition at the lash lines- will it be a fine precise line hidden in the lashes for low key enhancement, 'cat eye' style or a smudged coal liner for that smoky style. Also, choosing to line or define under the lower lash line will also determine style and drama. Lining the inner lower rim is party of the smoky eye style and has a very distinctive look.
• mascara & lashes style...black black black, in multiple layers will create more drama (think Dior 'Show' Mascara) than say brown in one or two coats. Two completely different looks. Colored mascara in blue, purple etc OR false lashes will dominate an eye makeup style (which can turn out beautifully if done well).

Last word on how to apply eyeshadow...

The variety of combinations is endless and so are the styles YOU CAN create. Handy terms to know for how to apply eyeshadow and creating dimension; highlight-to bring forward, to catch light, shade-to send backward, recede, AND contrast is the distance between the two. The greater the difference, the greater the DRAMA.

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