D.I.Y. Makeup Makeover

Do It Yourself With The Know How Of A Pro

A big part of a professional makeup makeover is really about a trained eye examining the details of an individual's facial features. Knowing these details will help you choose styles, techniques, colors and products not only suited to your features, but enable you to show them at their best.

I can't make you a skilled makeup technician but I can help you analyze your own face through the eyes of a professional. 

Below you will find steps to breaking down the details of your own face.  Looks a little long, but it is actually quite simple and I know you can manage it.  This process is really about learning a strategy to manage makeup choices after you have decided what style direction you want to go.

Grab a note pad and pen and get a thorough handle of the terms used as they apply to you, or just read and familiarize yourself with what to know... whatever serves you best.  It's time to feel confident about your makeup application!

1

The Face

face shape diagram

i) Face Shape

Shape Step 1

View your face directly from front, with your nose pointing to the mirror.  Trace your face shape on the mirror with your finger so you can visualize the nature of it's shape.

Shape Step 2

Which of the following face shapes best describe your own. There are variations of the following, but in general these are the six face shapes.
1. Oval- The forehead and jaw appear to be the same width and curvilinear shape, and the length of the face is one and a half it's width.
2. Oblong- This shape has a strong linear vertical cheek line, and a dominant length versus width.
3. Square- This face shape is as wide as it is long, with strong square angles at the forehead and jaw.
4. Rectangular-Similar to the square face in it's angular nature with the exception of being longer than it is wide.
5. Heart- This face shape combines a broad forehead and a narrow chin.
6. Round-This face shape literally is circular and even in appearance.

Shape Step 3

What do you do with this information?  In a makeup makeover, a pro would consider the face shape analysis for use of face color/effects makeup placement ; blush, highlight, contour, bronzer  etc..  Placement strategies would be used to counter strong shape and create balance (typically more important in extreme face shapes like heart or square where the shape of the face dominates its features).

Here are some tips on face shape makeup placement and balance strategies.

ii) Face Complexion

apple tips graphicThree makeup 'pet peeves' of professional makeup artists, when it comes to foundation makeup (and tips for you):
1.  Too Much.  This can make a complexion look dull and lifeless because you lose the benefits of natural looking skin.  Less is more.  In other words, don't wear more than needed to create an even complexion.
2.   Poor Skin Tone Match.  This unfortunately is common place because it can be tricky to get the right match.  It is well worth it to figure out a great match for both  color and coverage needs.
3.  Mismatch Of Face and Neck.  Many women make the mistake of stopping the makeup at their chin.  You don't have to put foundation on you neck, however, it is important to choose a facial color match that also works for your neck, and upper chest.

Complexion Step 1

In this analysis we are simply considering the overall coloring of your complexion, but more importantly the consistency of it's coloring.  Is your complexion even?  It may be dealing with varying degrees of acne, or rosacea, or pigmentation issues, all of which will interfere with the design of your makeup.

Complexion Step 2

Where does your skin tone fall?
1.  Even- The overall impression of your facial skin tone is one consistent color (not including dark under eye circles or the odd blemish).
2. Moderately Even- You skin tone is fairly even with the exception of a small zone which may have some pigmentation issues, perhaps it is prone to break outs, or this zone is blotchy for some reason.
3. Uneven- Your skin tone has apparent issues whether they are due to patchy pigmentation, a skin disorder like rosacea, or serious acne.

Complexion Step 3

It is important to have a healthy, even tone to your complexion and it is key to experiencing great results from your makeup makeover.  So what you will need to determine are your coverage needs (what does it take to create and even skin tone?)

1. Even- a makeup match to this skin tone is concealer, tinted moisturizer, light weight liquid foundation

Your coverage needs are minimal and concealer will do the trick for the odd blemish and dark circles.  Coverage choice will be yours.  If you are someone who likes to wear eye makeup, blush etc.,  use a tinted moisturizer or light weight liquid foundation to create a base, that will be receptive to subsequent makeup applications.  Remember less is more (don't wear any more than required to create a good base for other makeup).

2. Moderately Even- Camouflage (a liquid application that counters strong undertones of yellow, blue, or red), Concealer for spot coverage, Medium Coverage Foundation in liquid or cream to powder format (skin type of normal to dry will likely opt for liquid, and a skin type of normal to oil will likely opt for the cream to powder).

3. Uneven- Camouflage (a liquid application that counters strong undertones of yellow, blue, or red), Concealer for spot coverage, Heavy Coverage Foundation (often cream to powder formulations meet the needs of heavier coverage).

Complexion Step 4

Finding the best foundation for your skin tone and coverage needs is an absolute must in a great makeup makeover. 

For this you will need to get a perfect, to near perfect match if you want a natural looking finish.  You can ball park whether you are warm, cool or neutral toned by looking at your wrists' underside and figuring out whether your veins look more green (warm) or blue (cool) or unsure (likely) neutral. 

What is the perfect foundation skin tone match?

A foundation shade choice that disappears along your jaw line and cheek in natural light ( the most unforgiving light source).  For this you will need a hand held mirror and head to a window where natural light comes in, or head out doors with a few test shades on both jaws.  If in between to shades, opt for the lighter.

2

The Eyes

eye diagram

Eyes Step 1

Again, viewing your face with your nose pointing at the mirror, take a look at your eyes and consider their  shape, how they are set and their color.

Eyes Step 2

There are many variations in shape, sizing and setting, however, this wide range can be managed into fairly accurate descriptions.

i) Eye Shape:

Almond-as the name suggests, a longer horizontal dimension than its vertical and similar in its look to an almond (top eye in diagram above).

Round-circular shape in appearance with a vertical dimension appearing similar in scale to it horizontal dimension (middle eye in diagram above).

Narrow-this shape describes a very strong horizontal relative to its vertical dimension ( bottom eye in diagram above).

ii) Eye Size:

Eye size is a relative measurement to the size of an individual's face but generally eyes are described as large, average or small in scale. Often common shapes that correspond with these sizes are large and round, almond shaped average size, and narrow often corresponding with small.

iii) Eye Set:

Another way of describing your eyes is in reference to how they are "set". This refers to both distance apart and depth into the frontal plane of your face (refer to diagram above).

One eye length between your two eyes is considered the norm.  Greater than one eye length is called "wide set" and less than one eye length is called "close set" (refer to diagram above)

With regard to depth that your eyes are set, consider your profile.  Deep set eyes are often accompanied with the appearance of a strong brow.  Shallow set eyes are often accompanied with a face that seems fairly flat in profile.  Some where in between is where most people fall.

eye color illustrationFiguring out your eye color goes beyond blue, green or brown if you want to make great color choices that will make your eye color really vibrant.

Your eye color also can be described into warm or cool and this will help you  pick eye makeup shades that can really enhance your particular shade.

Warm-True blue, blue with green or yellow flecks, green with yellow or brown, brown that is amber or amber flecked.

Cool-Deep blue, blue-gray, clear green (no yellow flecks), dark brown.

Of coarse there are many variations in eye color, and even exceptions to the rule (usually found in those with neutral skin tone), however, pointing you in the right direction is my job (you will have to experiment and fine tune the eye makeup color choices to your liking).

Eyes Step 3

Knowing the details about your unique eye features combined with some eye makeup techniques know how, will help you custom fit your style ideas and showcase your unique set of eyes (which is what the pros do to make a style fit the individual).

3

The Eyebrows

eyebrow diagram

D.I.Y. Makeup Makeover

i) Eye Brows Distance Apart/ Length/ Shape

Step 1

Again, viewing your face with your nose pointing at the mirror, take a look at your eye area and your brows.

Step 2

There are rules of thumb to follow that bring great results for most people.  What you will need is a straight edge of some kind to work through the following shown in the diagram above:

a) Holding a ruler or pencil vertically at the side of your nostril and following that line straight up through your brow zone.  This is the start of your brow.
b) Using the straight edge beside your nostril, and a diagonal line the runs right beside the outer corner of your eye, and through the brow zone. This is where your brow ends.
c) Refers to where the arch occurs in your brow. Approximately over the outer third of your eye. d) and e) refer to this zone.

ii) Eye Brows Style

Style is of coarse up to you. 

WARNING: Take the time to consider your style ideas and drastic changes.  There are stencils that can create a fool proof shape of your choice.  If you are removing hair, proceed with caution and one hair at a time (trust me on this because its easy to get carried away.)


4

The Lips

lip diagram

D.I.Y. Makeup Makeover

Lips come in all sorts of packages but again, a general approach to describing lips are full, thin, uneven with many variations to the upper lip bow.  For your makeup makeover on your lips here are three common strategies.

  • Making thin lips appear more full?- line outer edge of natural lip line with natural shade or matching (planned) lip color shade. Soften line with finger or lip brush. Create a highlight color at central lip area and then add gloss to central for reflective purpose. Avoid dark shades, they can make a mouth seem smaller and severe.
  • Making full lips more thin? -line inner edge of natural lip line with pencil matching natural lip color or planned shade.
  • Uneven lips equal- usually the upper lip is less full than the lower lip in these scenarios...so line outer edge of natural upper lip line and either, skip lining the lower lip or line inner edge of lip line.

More makeup tips and care strategies for lips.

5

Pick A Favorite Feature

D.I.Y. Makeup Makeover

Part of the high impact of a makeup makeover is the professional makeup artist's ability to identify and showcase (showoff, play up, etc.) a special feature that is unique, interesting, beautiful and/or  a component of it.  For example eyes can be showcased as a whole, or showcased by just focusing on a single strong element such as color, long lashes, shape.

This not only introduces impact, but also a focal point to the makeup design (which strengthens the appeal of the design).  Makes sense, right?

Last word on the D.I.Y. Makeup Makeover...

Achieving pro results is doable IF you become aware of how to strategize makeup choices for your unique features.  Give it a shot, you may be unbelievabley dazzled by your own beauty!

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Summer 2017

Well, if you live in the Northern Hemisphere, the summer is here...finally:) Keep your skin protected. Pay attention to SPF, good sunscreen ingredients, that when combined with other ingredients, remain photostable, and use some good old fashion sun sense (sometimes we end up overexposed because we over estimate our sun protection when we have applied sunscreen). If your home geography is sun deprived, consider a daily dose of Vitamin D.

I would like to let all of you know how much I appreciate your support:) Please enjoy this west coast beach sunset as you soak up the beauty info. Grab some quick makeup tips or give your look a complete overhaul.

Something beautiful is on your horizon.

Cheers!

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Yasmin, Editor

P.S. Visit my Facebook and Twitter pages. I'd love to hear from you.

P.S. The mystery girl strolling the beach? My sister Sarah, who has been my "go to" model over the years. Thanks Sis!

SUMMER 2017


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  • EIGHT SMART SUN CARE TIPS
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    We love the sun and there are many great healthy benefits that come from spending time in it. The flip side to all the benefits are the ultra violet rays and long exposure dangers. Get some good sun sense working for you and your family, with these great eight tips.

  • SUMMER MAKEUP STYLE
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SUMMER 2017


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