Makeup Makeover

Do It Yourself With The Know How Of A Pro

At the start of any professional makeup makeover is the analysis of the individual's facial features. This is a very important process because it creates the guidelines for the design plan of the makeup and is key to the success of the results. Knowing these details will help you choose styles, techniques, colors and products not only suited to your features, but enable you to show them at their best.

For a makeup makeover the face can be examined by considering these four categories; the face as a whole, the eyes, the eyebrows and lips. Grab a note pad and pen to list the details point form under each category heading, as you move through the steps below. Get in front of a (hands free) mirror.

#1 The Face
i) Shape
ii) Complexion

D.I.Y. Makeup Makeover Face...

i) Shape

Step 1
View your face directly from front, with your nose pointing to the mirror. Trace your face shape on the mirror with your finger so you can visualize the nature of it's shape.

Step 2
Which of the following face shapes best describe your own. There are variations of the following, but in general these are the six face shapes.
1. Oval- The forehead and jaw appear to be the same width and curvilinear shape, and the length of the face is one and a half it's width.
2. Oblong- This shape has a strong linear vertical cheek line, and a dominant length versus width.
3. Square- This face shape is as wide as it is long, with strong square angles at the forehead and jaw.
4. Rectangular-Similar to the square face in it's angular nature with the exception of being longer than it is wide.
5. Heart- This face shape combines a broad forehead and a narrow chin.
6. Round-This face shape literally is circular and even in appearance.

Step 3
What do you do with this information? In a makeup makeover, a pro would consider the face shape analysis for use of face color/effects makeup placement ; blush, highlight, contour, bronzer etc.. Placement strategies would be used to counter strong shape and create balance (typically more important in extreme face shapes like heart or square where the shape of the face dominates its features). Here are some tips on face shape makeup placement and balance strategies.

ii) Complexion

Step 1
In this analysis we are simply considering the overall coloring of your complexion, but more importantly the consistency of it's coloring. Is your complexion even? It may be dealing with varying degrees of acne, or rosacea, or pigmentation issues, all of which will interfere with the design of your makeup.

Step 2
Where does your skin tone fall?
1. Even- The overall impression of your facial skin tone is one consistent color (not including dark under eye circles or the odd blemish).
2. Moderately Even- You skin tone is fairly even with the exception of a small zone which may have some pigmentation issues, perhaps it is prone to break outs, or this zone is blotchy for some reason.
3. Uneven- Your skin tone has apparent issues whether they are due to patchy pigmentation, a skin disorder like rosacea, or serious acne.

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Step 3
It is important to have a healthy, even tone to your complexion and it is key to experiencing great results from your makeup makeover. So what you will need to determine are your coverage needs (what does it take to create and even skin tone?)

1. Even- a makeup match to this skin tone is concealer, tinted moisturizer, light weight liquid foundation

Your coverage needs are minimal and concealer will do the trick for the odd blemish and dark circles. Coverage choice will be yours. If you are someone who likes to wear eye makeup, blush etc., use a tinted moisturizer or light weight liquid foundation to create a base, that will be receptive to subsequent makeup applications. Remember less is more (don't wear any more than required to create a good base for other makeup).

2. Moderately Even- Camouflage (a liquid application that counters strong undertones of yellow, blue, or red), Concealer for spot coverage, Medium Coverage Foundation in liquid or cream to powder format (skin type of normal to dry will likely opt for liquid, and a skin type of normal to oil will likely opt for the cream to powder).

3. Uneven- Camouflage (a liquid application that counters strong undertones of yellow, blue, or red), Concealer for spot coverage, Heavy Coverage Foundation (often cream to powder formulations meet the needs of heavier coverage).

Step 4
Finding the perfect color match for your complexion is a must in a great makeup makeover.

For this you will need to get a perfect, to near perfect match if you want a natural looking finish. You can ball park whether you are warm, cool or neutral toned by looking at your wrists' underside and figuring out whether your veins look more green (warm) or blue (cool) or unsure (likely) neutral.

You can also determine, that you are fair, medium, medium dark or dark skinned which will point you in the right direction in a drugstore or a cosmetics counter, because next is testing product for the right shade and perfect skin tone match.

What is the perfect foundation skin tone match? The one that disappears along your jaw line and cheek in natural light ( the most unforgiving light source). For this you will need a hand held mirror and head to a window where natural light comes in, or head our doors with a few test shades on both jaws. If in between to shades, opt for the lighter.

#2 The Eyes
i) Shape
ii) Set
iii) Color

eye makeup makeover

D.I.Y. Makeup Makeover

Step 1
Again, viewing your face with your nose pointing at the mirror, take a look at your eyes and consider their shape, how they are set and their color.

Step 2
There are many variations in shape, sizing and setting, however, this wide range can be managed into fairly accurate descriptions.

Eye Shape:

Almond-as the name suggests, a longer horizontal dimension than its vertical and similar in its look to an almond (top eye in diagram above).

Round-circular shape in appearance with a vertical dimension appearing similar in scale to it horizontal dimension (middle eye in diagram above).

Narrow-this shape describes a very strong horizontal relative to its vertical dimension ( bottom eye in diagram above).

Eye Size:

Eye size is a relative measurement to the size of an individual's face but generally eyes are described as large, average or small in scale. Often common shapes that correspond with these sizes are large and round, almond shaped average size, and narrow often corresponding with small.

Eye Set:

Another way of describing your eyes is in reference to how they are "set". This refers to both distance apart and depth into the frontal plane of your face (refer to diagram above).

One eye length between your two eyes is considered the norm. Greater than one eye length is called "wide set" and less than one eye length is called "close set" (refer to diagram above)

With regard to depth that your eyes are set, consider your profile. Deep set eyes are often accompanied with the appearance of a strong brow. Shallow set eyes are often accompanied with a face that seems fairly flat in profile. Some where in between is where most people fall.

eye color makeup tips Eye Color:

Figuring out your eye color goes beyond blue, green or brown if you want to make great color choices that will make your eye color really vibrant.

Your eye color also can be described into warm or cool and this will help you pick eye makeup shades that can really enhance your particular shade.

Warm-True blue, blue with green or yellow flecks, green with yellow or brown, brown that is amber or amber flecked.

Cool-Deep blue, blue-gray, clear green (no yellow flecks), dark brown.

Of coarse there are many variations in eye color, and even exceptions to the rule (usually found in those with neutral skin tone), however, pointing you in the right direction is my job (you will have to experiment and fine tune the eye makeup color choices to your liking).

Step 3

So, knowing your eye analysis details, you are ready to learn about eye makeup techniques and other eye makeup tricks that will help you custom design your end look for your makeup makeover.

eyebrow shaping and grooming

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D.I.Y. Makeup Makeover

i) Distance Apart/ Length/ Shape

Step 1
Again, viewing your face with your nose pointing at the mirror, take a look at your eye area and your brows.

Step 2
There are rules of thumb to follow that bring great results for most people. What you will need is a straight edge of some kind to work through the following shown in the diagram above:

a) Holding a ruler or pencil vertically at the side of your nostril and following that line straight up through your brow zone. This is the start of your brow.
b) Using the straight edge beside your nostril, and a diagonal line the runs right beside the outer corner of your eye, and through the brow zone. This is where your brow ends.
c) Refers to where the arch occurs in your brow. Approximately over the outer third of your eye. d) and e) refer to this zone.

ii) Style

Style is of coarse up to you.

WARNING: Take the time to consider your style ideas and drastic changes. This feature alone can make or break your makeup makeover.

There are stencils that can create a fool proof shape of your choice. If you are removing hair, proceed with caution and one hair at a time (trust me on this because its easy to get carried away.)

#4 Lips
i) Shape Strategies

D.I.Y. Makeup Makeover

THE LIPS

Lips come in all sorts of packages but again, a general approach to describing lips are full, thin, uneven with many variations to the upper lip bow. For your makeup makeover on your lips here are two common strategies.

Making thin lips appear more full?- line outer edge of natural lip line with natural shade or matching (planned) lip color shade. Soften line with finger or lip brush. Create a highlight color at central lip area and then add gloss to central for reflective purpose. Avoid dark shades, they can make a mouth seem smaller and severe.
Making full lips more thin? -line inner edge of natural lip line with pencil matching natural lip color or planned shade. # Uneven lips equal- usually the upper lip is less full than the lower lip in these scenarios...so line outer edge of natural upper lip line and either, skip lining the lower lip or line inner edge of lip line.

More makeup tips and care strategies for lips.

#5 PICK YOUR FAVORITE FEATURE

D.I.Y. Makeup Makeover

Part of the high impact of a makeup makeover is the professional makeup artist's ability to identify and showcase (showoff, play up, etc.) a special feature that is unique, interesting, beautiful and/or a component of it. For example eyes can be showcased as a whole, or showcased by just focusing on a single strong element such as color, long lashes, shape.

This not only introduces impact but also a focal point to the makeup design.

Makeup Makeover Results Last word on the D.I.Y. Makeup Makeover... Achieving pro results is doable IF you follow every step of analysis listed above, and follow through will style and product choices that support the unique nature of your facial features. You will be amazed by the collective power of each those steps.