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Skin Care Element#2:
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Skin exfoliation: A naturally occurring physiological process whereby dead surface skin cells, naturally slough off, and reveal new skin cells. Sounds like something you don't have to think about... However, although a natural process, this process can sometimes need assistance AND is almost always improved with assistance. Natural skin exfoliation sometimes needs assistance. For example, when the skin type is oily, the skin has difficulty exfoliating or sloughing off the dead skin cells, due to the sticky nature of oil. When the skin type is dry, dead skin accumulates quickly creating a dull appearance to the skin, in addition to, inhibiting effective natural skin exfoliation and needed moisture absorption. Or, even aging skin will slow down in its cellular renewal process.
Unless you have exceptionally sensitive skin, very mature skin, or a skin disorder of some kind, you will benefit greatly from regular skin exfoliation. Exfoliating the skin...
The
objective of exfoliating is to remove dead cells from the skin's surface
which will result in skin with a fresh healthy glow. Regular
exfoliation over time, will increase the skin's capacity to absorb
moisture, reduce fine lines and diminish acne. Skin exfoliation is an irritating process that actually,
is beneficial to most skin types. However, it can be quite challenging
to determine the fine line between good irritation as a result of
exfoliation and aggravated, inflamed skin. The best route is to be
fairly clear on your skin type, and then follow up with skin type
recommended exfoliation from a reliable resource. Manual
Exfoliation At the
present time, there are some great chemical exfoliates which are more
thorough, less irritating and less damaging to the skin than manual exfoliates.
In addition, chemical skin exfoliation is not part of
the wet cleansing process. Chemical exfoliates are in fact, gels, lotions
and creams that are used daily, after the skin has been cleansed and
dried. They also need to be followed daily by an excellent sunscreen
since chemical skin exfoliation will sensitize skin to the sun (skin by
its nature is already very sun sensitive). Chemical Exfoliation:
AHAs or Alpha Hydroxy Acids are fruit acids
and are water-soluble.
*Product formulas need to have a concentration of
at least 5-8% and a pH level of 3 or 4 to be effective. If the
packaging doesn't say, look for an ingredient listing placing it
second or third, and the presence of a balancing ingredient like
sodium or potassium hydroxide.
BHA or Beta Hydroxy Acid is salicylic acid
and is oil-soluble.
*Product formulas need to have a concentration of
at least 1-2% and a pH level of 3. Look for an ingredient listing
placing it approximately in the middle, and including sodium or
potassium hydroxide.
Skin exfoliation using both AHAs and BHA, act
to remove the outer layer of skin cells and promote cell turnover,
allowing healthier new cells to come to the surface.
Where they are different is in their soluble
nature and as a result, AHA tends to be applied to skin dealing
with sun damage, dryness and thickness. BHA is actively used to
deal with blemishes and acne. It is important to note that the
product formula that these acids are used in must meet very
specific criteria to be effective; concentration percentage of
acid in a very specific pH of formula (noted above and supported
by several reputable studies).
One of Allure
Magazine Editor's Favorite is Juice Beauty Green Apple Peel AHA Enzyme Treatment
(12%
Glycolic Acid) .
BHA products tend to focus on problems related to
breakouts, and good BHA products are fewer in number, to choose
from. A highly recommended BHA product line is called Cellex-C Beta
Plex.
This extensive line has cleansers, creams like this Cellex-C Betaplex New Complexion
Cream,
serums, skin type specific items and more.
A combination of both AHA and BHA is
M.D. Skin Care Alpha-Beta Peel Home Facial System.
Tretinoin
The use of tretinoin is a very effective method of skin
exfoliation and is a Vitamin A derived ingredient.
It can be found in brand names like Renova and
Retin A, but requires a Prescription. Trentinoin, performs the
task of skin exfoliation just as AHA and BHA, however, it works at
a much greater depth. It operates at a cellular level and
actually, has the capacity to modify irregular skin cell behavior.
As a result their is healthy cell production, natural skin
exfoliation, and a healthier appearance. This can be tremendously
beneficial to skin that is sun damaged, wrinkled, and suffering
from acne. Results have demonstrated smoother skin and diminished
acne since the clogged pore issue is addressed with better natural
exfoliation. There is even evidence in recent studies, that
trentinoin can help with collagen production (a structural element
supporting the skin's cells that is has been broken down by sun
damage and also slows down in production as we age.)
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