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The "Trick" To Smoky Eye Makeup
Step By Step

Smoky eye makeup has to be one of the most popular eye makeup styles, bar none...the requests on line, the number of you-tube tutorials, every beauty and fashion magazine, you name it,...offers a breakdown of how to achieve this über sexy look....

A gorgeous smoky eye is also a tricky, more technical eye makeup style to pull off... well that is... the look is smoky but polished AND it often can look messy and trashy.

If you feel like you have to left thumbs, here you are, a step by step with diagrams...for a fool proof, high precision, well blended, professional looking application.

There are so many methods, products and tools professionals use to create this look.

...And the look ranges from 'soft smoky' which can be a great daytime professional look, to all out black 'smoky' and includes rimming the inner eye lid (water line) in black eyeliner.

The method that I will show you, uses makeup and tools that most of us have in our limited makeup supply; powder eye shadows, eyeliner, pencils and basic makeup brushes.

Recommended palette of colors deep and earthy; plums, violets, grays, blues, greens, browns ...your coloring will dictate your preference...
AND the drama level of the effect, soft smoky or dramatic smoky, will be in how dark or light the colors chosen are (that will increase or decrease the CONTRAST against your skin tone). 

Placement of shades is an important part of this look BUT blending is the KEY to the trick of smoky eye makeup SO learn the zones of placement and blend the layers of color well.

Here we go...

Dramatic Smoky Eye Makeup


 
smoky eye makeup

The 'Step By Step':

Always a good start...

Even out skin tone of face with foundation, and concealer...for the face, less is always more in application of foundation, so as light weight as possible and apply concealer only as needed, to meet objective of an even skin tone.

Prep the eye area with a good base, dusted with translucent powder before beginning Step 2 (that is the key to an easier, smoother, and longer lasting application of eye makeup).

Gather your makeup and tools:
For smoky eye makeup, choose three eye shadow colors of the same color family (a light shade, medium, and dark shade) and a coordinating dark pencil.


'In a nutshell' think of the smoky eye makeup application in terms of color darkest at the lash area, getting lighter as you move towards the brow,  each layer WELL blended and disappearing into the next. 

Each layer must deal with a zone:

Step 1  STARTING AT THE LASH LINE:

A.  Start with a soft ('smudgable'), sharp, dark eye pencil, black for THE SMOKIEST drama and an already dark palette of colors, PLACED TIGHTLY along the lash line.

A great technique that will avoid any gaps between liner and upper lashes, are short angled strokes between the lashes (at the root), from outer corner to inner corner. Once you've got those gaps, move the pencil a little more freely horizontally along the lash line.

B.  Next, TO SOFTEN AND SMUDGE THE EYE LINER, take a small, firm hair, eye shadow brush (there are actual makeup brushes called eye 'smudge' brush) and blend the eye liner along the lash line horizontally and out a little past the outer corner (you can also use your ring finger gently... I prefer a brush because it is more precise).

smoky eye makeup

Smashbox Double Ended Smudger Brush #20

OR try this pencil and 'smudger' in one Elizabeth Arden Smoky Eyes Powder Pencil, Smokey Black.

C.  Then, take the pencil, and line under lower lash line, starting at the outer corner and moving toward the inner corner (For less extreme, softer version, stop at two thirds of the way and blend into corner in next step).

D.  Now using a small 'smudge brush, smudge and soften and blend, moving back and forth horizontally, sweeping out a little past outer corner, and in to inner.

E.  Standard but OPTIONAL: Lining the inner rims of the upper and lower lids which creates the blackest 'smoked out' look.

With some experimentation, you will easily be able to gage the drama level of the smoky eye makeup style you are looking for.

Step 2  MOVING ON LID TOWARD CREASE:

A.  Apply the deepest eye shadow shade using a medium eye shadow brush.  Its zone is from the upper lid lash line, blending well into the smudged pencil, up to and well blended into the crease (the second color should merge into the first).  

Smashbox Blending Brush #3

B.  Under the lower lash line, the deepest shade has a more narrow placement, using an small shadow brush or angled eyeliner brush, right under the lashes from outer corner to inner corner (you can stop a third of the way from the inner corner to soften the look). 

Step 3 MOVING CREASE TOWARD BROW BONE

Apply the medium shade of eye shadow colors using a medium eye shadow brush.

Its zone for the smoky eye, overlaps deep shade, moves into crease and toward brow bone PLUS under the lower lash line from outer corner to inner corner (use the tip of the brush and a horizontal sweep under the lash line).

Use an eye blender brush, one with a small round head of firm but soft bristles, sweep horizontally right under the lash line to soften/ smudge the shadow, as well as blend the shades together.

Step 4 BROW BONE + INNER CORNER

Highlight the brow bone, using your lightest shade or an official shimmer/ highlighter, with focus at the outer third of brow, 
Also, you can brighten the very inner lower corner of the eye with a small placement at approximately the tear duct.

Take a eye shader brush, soft bristles, larger head, for easy blending or use your medium eye shadow brush gently blending into border shade.

Step 5  LASHES

Finish with black mascara.
Use an eye lash curler first, and then on the upper lashes take the mascara wand horizontally, "grip" the base of the lashes and jiggle up and through very tips of lashes.  Working the lashes with repeated coats until the lashes are positioned  with a nice "splay" outward.

For the lower lashes, take the mascara wand vertically, and sweep from inner to outer corners.  Take your fingertips and "pinch" anything too long or "cabaret".

Once your lashes are dry, take a brush and comb through any clumps or ill positioned  lashes ( an old clean mascara wand is great for this job).  Clean up any dust, specs or unwanted marks with a cotton swab.

If you really want to take this into all out glamour, add false lashes.
Always a good finish...

Don't forget to groom your brows into place and get rid of strays underneath (don't pluck above the brow) and fill if sparse.  They complete the look of any makeup style because they frame the eyes.

This will help them stay put Tweezerman SPA Browmousse, Styling Gel for Eyebrows.

smokey eye makeupWhen you are applying eye shadows, try placing a folded tissue under the lower lash line to catch the shadow dust falling.

ENSURING YOUR SUCCESS WITH SMOKY EYE MAKEUP

Good tools are always critical to the success, polish and ultimate impact of a look.

If you are without all of the above brushes, here is a kit catering to the smoky eye makeup style, to consider.

The Smokey Eye Kit

If you are looking for some great smoky eye makeup products with beautiful color palettes in duos and trios consider these; Vincent Longo Eye Shadow Trios, Dior Palette, Smashbox Eye Shadow Trio, NARS Eye Shadow Duo, Du Wop Gray Eyes, Stila Eye Shadow Trio...there are lots to choose from and these multi color palettes can take the guess work out of color combinations.

The eyeliners for smoky eye makeup need to be soft enough to smudge; MAC has some great KOHL Liners, Sephora Brand, Vincent Longo, Elizabeth Arden Smoky Eyes to name a few...

Try Smashbox, Benefit, Sephora brand... at 
Sephora.com, Inc.
Try Stila, NARS, Vincent Longo, Elizabeth Arden... at 
Beauty.com


"Soft Smoky" Eye Makeup...Here is an example of the same smoky eye makeup technique using a lighter palette of colors. 

smoky eye makeup


If you want a makeup style for day with a little more flare OR perhaps, a low key sexy night time look, this is a great application.

The difference between low key smoky eye makeup and dramatic effect smoky eye makeup really comes down to: 
1.  Adjusting the color palette to lighter shades and reducing the contrast between depth of tones
2. Reducing shimmer or frost to fairly matte colors.
3.  Minimizing the lining below the eye, and the thickness of line at the upper lash line.

Learning the application technique of professional looking smoky eye makeup will be a very versatile makeup style that you can use for a wide range of occasions.

Back To Beautiful Basics Eye Make Up Tips From Smoky Eye Makeup

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