Spring Makeup Trends 2012

Runaway Spring Makeup Au Naturale

The clothing fashions this spring had an interesting and wide array of style inspirations; vintage 50's and 60's, sport chic, tribal, safari and more.  As far apart as some of the  styles were, there is one thing they all seemed to share, there interest in feminine detailing.

Louis Vuitton was full on feminine with light sheer fabric, soft pastel shades, floral detailing, 'lady like'  50's  blouse, skirt, heels, with pretty makeup and a 'girly' skinny head band on 'up do' hair.  Donna Karan, Karen Walker, and Prada were just a few of the many more designers who really expressed feminine design elements. 

The spring makeup vision, designers (and their makeup artists) combined with their clothes this year?  It also ranged in look and feel, but the most dominant design visual on the runways (and surprising) was the dramatic NUDE and/or NATURAL, face.  From nude no makeup neutral, to nude combined with strong brows or lips, to natural ultra raw, to natural with soft details, to super natural dialed up color, the message was clear.  The natural face is  a design fascination this year!

We also had the flipside from soft, in a number of designer opting for spring makeup with dramatic design, statement eye makeup.  I thought Alexander Wang, Peter Som and Prada had some of the most beautiful eye makeup looks.  Rodarte and L.A.M.B. certainly took this idea the furthest  (and the least likely to be replicated in the real world I might add- think of the most smokey black eye makeup, and enlarge the zone in normally takes in the eye area, and you've got it).

Here is a peak at the runways of New York and Paris to give you an idea of the spring makeup trends.

Spring Makeup Trends 2012 :
1. The NUDE Face

spring makeup looks

A dramatic, non-makeup makeup look with these makeup details; monochromatic, neutral toned, low color contrast, bare look to the complexion. 

It came in three main forms;

  • NUDE face + BOLD BROW
  • NUDE face + BOLD LIPS
  • NUDE face

Designer Runways Seen On...

  • Nude Face+ Bold Brow combination in its most pure form (void of eye makeup) at shows Altuzarra, Vera Wang, and Derek Lamb 
  • Nude Face + Bold Lip combo on the runways of Richard Chai Love (actually sky blue lips), Prabal Garung (dark wine) and Gucci (brows colored neutral to face tone and red lips).
  • Nude Face-Neutral Everything, "handsome" according to pro makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury for Victoria Beckham

apple graphic imageThe NUDE FACE Spring Makeup Trends 2012 Tips:

graphic 1Neutral Complexion-Even out your complexion with a light weight foundation in a perfect skin tone match.  Light weight powder to minimize shine but not heavy, and not completely matte. No blush.

graphic 2Bold Brows- Objective, bold and grown out feel.  Use a little deeper than match pencil and powder in your brow makeup application will help pick up their intensity.  Depending on where you are starting from, an existing healthy full dark brow or fair and fine,  pencil in a slightly thicker width and length. Brush to soften, and in upward direction.  Add powder to set and increase boldness (gauge to match your comfort zone). 

arrow graphicNeed, brow grooming tools and products, try Anastasia Beverly Hills , famous for the amazing, thought of everything, eye brow products and tools; this little double ended tool, Anastasia Brow Wiz is great.

graphic 3Bold Lips- The key element is color choice (and just how bold you are).  Orange-reds, reds and  bold pastels are popular this spring.

arrow graphicLove that gorgeous orange you have been seeing, but don't think you can where it? Sephora (with the help of their new expert color partner Pantone - the authority on color in design world wide) offers a quick way to figure out what specific shade of this top color of spring makeup trends 2012, is going to work for you. ( I did it and this is the lip shade that works for me, Sephora Collection Lip Color Sunset Dream, now if I can get up the nerve.)

Spring Makeup Trends 2012 :
2. The NATURAL Face

look graphic


Like the NUDE Face, the NATURAL Face is a non-makeup makeup look, however, the makeup details enhance the  'natural' , not the neutral, elements.

The NATURAL face also had a range  of finishes:


Designer Runways Seen On...

  • PURE Natural Face- Minimal makeup enhancement, the face appears to be In its most pure form (makeup enhancements, concealer, natural flush to cheek, natural lip color, all work to fit natural appearance) seen at Céline, BCBG, and Givenchy.
  • SOFT Natural Face- This makeup is low key,  but present to enhance eyes, lips cheeks with soft definition and ultimatley does not interfere with the natural look of an individuals face.  Seen at Chloé , Valentino, Dries Van Noten and Ralph Lauren.
  • SUPER Natural Face- Natural in overall concept with exaggerated vibrance at the cheeks and lips as seen at Mark Jacobs, DKNY and Karen Walker , Michael Kors (very sun swept).

apple graphic imageThe NATURAL FACE Spring Makeup Tips:

graphic 1PURE Natural Face- As light a weight foundation as you can afford for as sheer and natural look to the skin as possible. Dust only areas of excessive shine. Choose a sheer cream blush in a natural hue (coral shade popular) working the apple, moving from the center out , blending well.  Emulate a light weight glow, and cream will help create dewy skin feel.  Finish with a little mascara, well combed lashes and a natural tint lip balm.

graphic 2SOFT Natural Look- Use the natural face tip above as a starting point, and then add soft neutral shadow definition for the eyelids in go to shades like taupe, skipping the eye liner, and finishing with a natural finish mascara and a soft coral-pink lip shade.

graphic 3SUPER Natural Glow- Again, use the natural face as a starting point, then dial your blush and lip applications up a notch (don't go too far, you are not on a runway making a design statement). 
My personal favorite for natural finish blushes are made by Tarte (cheek stain, and amazonian clay are beautiful in color, and finish).

If Michael Kors has got your attention with his sun swept on safari/ tribal looks, use a sheer bronzer in a shade only one darker than your own (sure thing, fool proof natural looking, worth the premium price tag,  easy to use powder bronzer: Guerlain Terracotta Bronzing Powder).

Dick Page was the professional artist for M.K.'s show and said he also used creamy gold eyeshadow at the inner corners of the eyes, finishing with mascara and caramel colored lipstick.

Spring Makeup Trends 2012 :
3. Vintage Pretty 

look graphic


Definitely a shift from the style directions of the NUDE and NATURAL looks but it is by no means overdone.  VINTAGE PRETTY  captures simple elegance.  The look of the makeup is clean, flawless complexion, soft lips and cheeks and pretty, lined, lash oriented eye makeup.

Designer Runways Seen On...

  • A perfect fit with the extreme feminine detailing on the 50's and 60's inspired fashions of  Louis Vuitton, Jil Sander, Diane Von Furstenburg,  and Rochas .

apple graphic imageGet The Look' Spring Makeup Tips:

graphic 1Flawless, clean, glowing complexion... achieved with light weight foundation, or tinted moisturizer, concealer to trouble zones, followed by a light dusting of sheer powder.  Luminizing product like Benefit Highbeam or Tinted moisturizer like Smashbox Sheer Focus in Luminance will really help create that subtle glow.

graphic 2Soft Cheeks & Lips- Choose a coral shade, and similar low key shade for lips.  Application objective is to create a very soft glow to the cheek, and finished lips.  Try fade free and flawless Tarte Amazonian Clay 12-Hour Blush in a shade like Tipsy-coral or Dollface-light pink.

spring makeup tip 3Pretty Eye Makeup- The feel is elegant, pretty,  perfect eye makeup.  Louis Vuitton had their models' upper lids precision lined with black liner, and lashes beefed up with false lashes and lots of black mascara.  Eye lids had neutral low key shades of shadow color, and lower lashes had soft mascara, and light or no shadow definition.

Spring Makeup Trends 2012 :
4. Styled Dramatic Eyes

look graphic

Counter culture to neutral, natural and soft makeup feel that dominated the spring runways, was the high definition, DRAMATIC STYLIZATION of eye makeup for a handful of big name designers.  Each had there own type of eye makeup style.

Designer Runways Seen On...

  • Smokey Eyes- beautifully done and in combination with a neutral face seen at Alexander Wang, Ungaro, Pucci and Gucci.
  • Cat Eye - Upper lash line completed with dramatic, black, winged eye liner seen at Jonathan Saunders
  • Intense Blackout - Similar to smokey, just extended in size of 'smoked out' and in very dark shadow colors.  Seen on the runways of L.A.M.B. and Rodarte.
  • Liquid Liner- the eye lids had neutral shadow and 'old school' style liquid liner along upper lash line, slight wing and and along lower eye lid inner rim, seen at Prada.
  • Bright eye shadow tangerine, red, cornflower blue, orchid purple.
  • Lining Arc-  Peter Som models had beautiful makeup with an exotic touch by placing an interesting line along the arc, mid upper eye lid.
  • apple graphic imageGet The Look' Spring Makeup Tips:

    graphic 1Precision Eye Line- whether creative, 'over the top' dramatic styling of lines or tight lash line placement, these two makeup products are awesome; Gel Eyeliner (MAC Fluidline or Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eye Liner are great products) and a fine liner brush (again MAC and Bobbi Brown excellent makeup brushes and tools) are easy to use, more forgiving than liquid liner with non professional hands at work, and will achieve almost any of your eye liner style ideas.

    graphic 2

    Smokey Eye Makeup- Blending and smudging are the name of the game for smokey eye makeup styles.  So, choosing a quality, pigmented shadow, smudgable pencil liner and tools like medium eye shadow brush, blender and smudge brush, are the perfect arsenol. 

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